Metal Detecting (The Ultimate Guide) Tips, Tricks & Tools of The Trade. For a lot of folks, they hear the term . Here are just a few more of the common reasons: The love of history and thrill of being able to hold something in your hands that hasn't seen the light of day in hundreds of years. The love of coin collecting. Whether that be older colonial silver coins or more modern coins like wheat pennies. The love of being active and in the outdoors. Metal detecting on the beach can be fun and lucrative! Visit my webpage for the best beginner metal detectors, important accessories, and where to hunt. Big valley metal detectors- 916-225-9150 -take a beach scoop on your next trip and find jewelry, gold, and MORE! Prospect like the folks on GOLD RUSH and DIGGERS. Believe it or not, metal detecting can be a fantastic form of exercise. And of course financial gain from either selling your finds (gold/silver jewelry) or even gold nuggets. Personally, my interests lie in the first three categories - as do most metal detectorists I know. In fact, very few people I know are in this hobby for financial gain. Their finds are often more meaningful to them than a few extra dollars in their pockets. Contrary to what a lot of people may think, people who metal detect are often history buffs and collectors who don’t frequent the pawn shops. Metal detecting can also be extremely addicting - especially when you find yourself digging up relics that are hundreds of years old. One of my very first finds was a French Military button from the late 1. I dug it near an old colonial homestead that, through research, I determined was once owned by a French family hundreds of years ago. Pulling items like that out of the dirt gives you a huge adrenaline rush. For me, this is my . Later in this guide, I go into depth on each of these topics. There is so much equipment you can choose to utilize to make your hunts more productive, but let me simplify it for you. When you’re first starting out and not sure if you’ll even like the hobby (or if budget is a concern), you’ll want to get yourself an entry level detector. That’s really all you need to start. Some folks will say you need a . This in-depth buying guide cuts through all the BS and helps you choose the best metal detector for your budget, experience, and intended use. Metal Detector Reviews Listed by Brand Name Each Listing Includes Metal Detector's Reviews & Ratings by Real Users + MD's Features, Specifications, Prices & Images To. Beginners Guide to Metal detecting and Treasure Hunting by Capt. Daniel Berg: The complete guide to buying the right metal detector and basics of successful. While those things are all very useful for the experienced hunter, when you’re first starting out all you really need is a detector. After all, you don’t want to be spending loads of money up front if you’re not sure you’ll like the hobby. We’ll talk more about accessories later in this article, but for now, let’s stick to entry level detectors. At the time of writing this guide, a quality entry level metal detector will cost you anywhere from $1. Anything over $4. I consider to be midlevel. Just to put this price into context, some detectors can cost up to $1. But machines that cost this much are meant for gold prospecting in areas where there’s known gold in the ground like on old claims (see t. And what’s great about this hobby is that most of the equipment holds it’s value like you can’t believe. So worse case scenario you don’t like the hobby, just put your detector on ebay and get (most) of your money back. So what entry level machine should you get? Here all the most popular entry level models currently available for each of the brands I mentioned above: These are all entry level machines. To get an idea of what's considered to be a mid- level machine, take a look at the Garrett AT Pro. Yes, there are cheaper models available in most of these brands, but these will give you the most bang for your buck. You really can’t go wrong with any of the above machines when you’re first starting out. What is the best metal detector? Ok so all entry- level selection aside, let’s talk about what is the best metal detector. Quite honestly, there is no best detector. A lot of people think certain machines will find better stuff or get better depth. And yes this can happen if we’re comparing a $1. But for the most part, the ? What type of hunting do you want to do (coin, relic, beach, gold, etc)? More on this later. What's your budget? What's your experience level with metal detecting? How tech- savvy are you? For simplicity sake, I am going to tell you that all metal detectors do the exact same thing - detect metal. What makes certain machines more expensive than the others is the additional features and different technologies. It’s really that simple. If I put a silver coin in front of you and hand you both a $1. Now let’s say I also put an old rusty nail next to that coin. The $1. 00 machine will detect metal, but it won’t be sure what the target is. The $2,5. 00 machine will go so far as to tell you there are two targets in front of you, one that is a coin and one that is trash. That is just one example of how the entry level machines differ from the more expensive ones. Make sense? We’ll talk much more about the technology behind metal detectors in future articles. Since this is an introductory guide, I don’t want to bore you with too much more techy stuff. So that’s all you really need to know regarding selecting an entry level detector. You can’t go wrong with any of the ones I mentioned above so take your pick and get out there! I’ll go into more depth on accessories later in this article, so let’s continue with some other things you need to know to get started. Use this guide to learn how to choose the best metal detector for your needs. Learn more about the best metal detector specifically for coins here. So if your budget is a bit tight but you don't want to settle for a lesser machine, consider buying used. Where to Metal Detect. The most common places to hunt are going to be: Public schools. Public Parks. Beaches. Woods. Private Property. Before I go any further on this topic, I want to mention that you always need to be 1. Hunting places without permission is a huge no- no in this hobby. And even though a place is a public property, you still need to be certain that you're allowed to detect there. For example, many public parks strictly prohibit metal detecting - especially parks run by the county and state. And you can pretty much assume that Federal Parks are off limits too. So always check with your local government before stepping foot on public land with your metal detector. When it comes to public schools, the same thing applies really. Get permission. What I like to do is contact the Superintendent of the school district to get permission. This way I have permission for every school in that district. When hunting in the woods on public land, be sure to keep an eye out for signs posted and/or property lines. It’s not that hard to wander off into someone’s private land when you think you’re still on public lands. Beaches are usually fair game - but again look for signs. Also, some beaches are privately owned or owned by State/Federal governments. These are almost always off limits. Click here to read our guide on the best metal detectors for beaches. Lastly, let’s talk about private property. Hunting on private property will be the best ground by far for a few reasons. First, you can almost guarantee that no one else has ever detected there (as opposed to a public park or schoolyard). Second, the landowner can give you clues where to start your hunt. Maybe they noticed some broken pottery out in the woods in one spot of their land years ago. That would be an excellent place to start your hunt! I cannot stress enough the importance of getting permission. While verbal permission will often suffice for private land, I always get written permission for any public or government- owned land. Take the written permission (whether it’s a letter or an email print out) and keep it with you at all times during your hunt. This way if you’re ever approached by someone, you have proof that you’re allowed to be there. Once you secure permission to hunt the land, let’s talk about your code of conduct. Metal Detecting Code of Conduct. I will respect private and public property, all historical and archaeological sites and will do no metal detecting on these lands without proper permission. I will keep informed on and obey all local and national legislation relating to the discovery and reporting of found treasures. I will aid law enforcement officials whenever possible. I will cause no willful damage to property of any kind, including fences, signs, and buildings. I will always fill the holes I dig. I will not destroy property, buildings or the remains of deserted structures. I will not leave litter or other discarded junk items lying around. I will carry all rubbish and dug targets with me when I leave each search area. I will observe the Golden Rule, using good outdoor manners and conducting myself at all times in a manner which will add to the stature and public image of all people engaged in the field of metal detection. It’s so important to read and follow the code of conduct in it’s entirety. If not, you risk being able to metal detect in the future. Landowners and government officials will no longer grant permission for you or others to metal detect if you’re leaving unfilled holes behind and otherwise treating the land irresponsibly. The thing to remember is that wherever you’re hunting, you must leave that place looking exactly as it did before you got there - or better! Now that we’ve talked about some possible places to detect, let’s talk about doing research to make your site selection a bit more effective. Research. While I could probably write an entire book on how to do productive research, this guide is going to touch on the basics and focus primarily on private land. Before getting into specific sources, let’s first identify why it’s important to do research. While the most important part of this hobby is just to have fun and enjoy yourself, it never hurts to create more productive hunts for yourself and walk away with better finds. So instead of finding 8. Here are a few ways to conduct research: Old Maps. Arguably the best method of doing research, looking at old maps of your town can give you tons of ideas on where to hunt. It also can be the catalyst for a more granular form of research such as searching old newspapers for specific family names. Depending on where you live, there’s an online tool available to the public that’s awesome for comparing old maps with present day maps. It’s a website called Historic. Searching for Treasure in the Sand. Where do tourists often flock in the heat of summer? How long have they been going to the beach? Aren’t beaches notorious for crowds? Doesn’t sunscreen and sweat make your fingers slippery, sending rings flying into the sand? Didn’t old ships sink off the coast filled with treasure? These questions should give you an idea of why beach metal detecting is so popular and why there are so many dedicated beach metal detectors out there! What is the Difference Between Wet and Dry Sand Beach Metal Detecting? Dry sand hunting: Every part of the beach where sea water regularly doesn’t touch. Many beaches have vast areas of dry sand. Metal detecting on the dry sand is great because every metal detector can handle it with ease. Additionally, if you have been a regular hunter for a while and have a relic machine it will work great in the dry sand. The dry sand tends to be filled with trash including aluminum cans, bobby pins, bottle caps, you name it. Discrimination is essential because with most beaches you have a lot of sand to cover. The ability to pick and choose what you dig based on what your detector tells you is going to improve your efficiency greatly. You can expect to find coins, phones, and jewelry. If this sounds like fun to you, grab your beginner or relic machine and hit the sand. However, if you are regularly hunting the dry sand, the wet sand and water will beckon you. Much like gold nugget hunting or relic hunting, you are going to need a specific detector designed for the water like the ones detailed below. Hunting in the water is tough work. Here in Southern California it can be down right dangerous with the waves and rip currents. The wet sand is just more labor intensive than the dry sand. So is it worth it? While I have found jewelry in both the wet and dry sand, the wet sand finds have been significantly more valuable. Also, I have found several old coins in the wet sand that have been washed up from a recent storm. If you are a regular dry sand hunter it may be time to step up to wet/water metal detecting! This is normal! These are called false targets. Salt water and the dreaded black sand! Here is an example of some black sand mixed in with the regular beach sand. Why is black sand so difficult? The minerals that make up that sand. Its usually not much but inches can make a difference. You have to decide what is more important, do you want to dig everything or do you want to pick and choose but give up some depth. It really boils down to the type of beach. Some beaches are infested with iron bits, making the VLF ideal, while others are nice white sand beaches with few targets, making the PI a perfect fit. Garrett AT Pro Metal Detector. What sets the Garrett AT Pro apart from the competition is the LCD Screen with button interface, auto/manual ground balance, and a wide range of settings for both the novice & professional. This VLF machine is suited for mostly dry sand, occasional wet sand, and little water usage (waterproof to only 1. Click here for Garrett AT Pro information and settings. The Best Underwater Metal Detector The Garrett AT Pro is a great beach metal detector but it is only rated to 1. This machine is suited for the water and wet sand, less so in the dry sand (due to lack of discrimination). Garrett Infinium LS Metal Detector. The Garrett Infinium LS Underwater Metal Detector comes with PI technology , sensitivity to small gold as is doubles a gold nugget hunter. It is built tough and has the ability to exchange the coil depending on the type of hunting you choose to do. This detector is primarily suited forthe water and wet sand. You can find more Garrett Infinium LS information and settings here. Fisher CZ2. 1 Metal Detector. The Fisher CZ2. 1 Underwater Metal Detector has multi frequency VLF technology which produces great depth and discrimination. This machine is suited for all aspects of the beach including the water, wet sand, and dry sand. Visit my webpage dedicated to Fisher CZ2. Minelab Excalibur II Metal Detector. What sets the Minelab Excalibur II Underwater Metal Detector apart from the competition is the BBS technology (VLF) which produces great depth and discrimination. This machine is suited for the water and wet sand, with occasional dry sand (This sucker is heavy). The Minelab Excalibur II can be customized in many ways to deal with the weight such as waist mounting or a new shaft. Garrett ATX Metal Detector. The Garrett ATX is a brand new metal detector from Garrett.
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